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PACIN is dedicated to providing a wide range of information on art handling techniques intended to improve the care of art throughout the world. However, the user of this information must be aware that each and every object, and handling situation, is unique. It is always the responsibilty of the user of PACIN's information to correctly and safely handle works of art. PACIN will not be responsible for any accidents resulting from the use of information provided.

PACIN Archived ListServ Conversations

VAPOR BARRIER

Question from: From: Mark Ryan <mryan@plainsart.org>
Subject: vapor barrier question

Good morning,

I have a quick question regarding vapor barriers. We are in the process of constructing two crates that will house prints that are part of a traveling exhibition. What sort of material is commonly used for a vapor barrier? Should we use Tyvek to line the interior of the crate? Each piece of art will be wrapped in polyethylene and laid flat in a handling tray that fits inside each crate. If we use Tyvek or a similar material, how is the Tyvek attached to the interior of the crate? We would like to attach Ethafoam plank bumpers on each side and bottom of the crate for the trays to cradle down into. Does the Ethafoam attach well to the Tyvek, or should the planks be attached first, then the Tyvek attached afterward?

Thank you in advance for any advice you can offer in regards to this question and for all the advice offered in the past.

Sincerely,

Mark Ryan
Registrar


Reply from: Geoff Browne <gbrowne@terrydowd.com>

Mark -

We and many others no longer line crates with water or vapor barriers, but build the crate shells using MDO (Medium Density Overlay) plywood, sealing joints with Dow 737 non-corrosive silicone, and gasketing the crate with self-adhesive neoprene. In submerged tests, the crates were watertight for up to 8 hours without painted exteriors, and with painted exteriors were watertight for over 2 weeks.

If you are unfamiliar with MDO, it was originally produced for use as exterior sign board (highway signs), and differs from exterior plywood in that it has a phenolic plastic layer with a Kraft overlay. While there is single faced MDO, we use MDO "2 sides". Regarding chemistry - we were informed about MDO by a client / artisan, who has built architectural miniatures since the '50s in sealed MDO cases, most with raw metal castings of sculptures, etc., without any discoloration, tarnishing, etc. despite being sealed in these cases for years - an Oddy test taken to the extreme. When I asked the Canadian COnservation Institute their opinion of MDO, their comment was that they routinely sealed objects in display cases made of MDO...

MDO currently costs about 14% more than exterior AC plywood, but is well worth it in terms of labor saved, and the fact that packing foam can be easily and securely hot glued directly to crate walls. We use 3M 3792-LM-Q glue sticks, a low melt that doesn't melt Ethafoam as easily as hotter glue sticks.

Geoff Browne
Senior Project Manager
Terry Dowd, Inc.
gbrowne@terrydowd.com


From: jlucas@artechseattle.com <jlucas@artechseattle.com>

RE: vapor barrier question

1 option - glue the tyvec to the wood during the construction of the crates
- then hot glue the ethafoam into place.


From: Stephen Fixx <Stephen.Fixx@oberlin.edu>

RE: vapor barrier question

Dear Mr. Ryan,

We just received a dozen beautiful crates from Cornell University that use the aforementioned MDO, use a neoprene gasket sealed lid, are painted on the outside, and are lined on the inside with Marvel Seal! They house a private collection of surrealist drawings that has been traveling around for some time. No individual vapor barriers were used.

Best of luck,

Stephen F. Fixx
Assistant Exhibit Preparator
Oberlin College
Allen Memorial Art Museum
87 N. Main St.
Oberlin, OH 44074-1161
440/775-6201; Fax: 440/775-6841
email: stephen.fixx@oberlin.edu


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